For the reassembly I have placed the shock/spring assembly in a bench vise. Note the four holes provided for the two studs on the top of the spring assembly. Use the 8 and 2 olock positions for the left-side front suspension, as shown here. The right-side front suspension would use the holes at the 10 and 4 o lock positions.
For the reassembly I have placed the shock/spring assembly in a bench vise. Note the four holes provided for the two studs on the top of the spring assembly. Use the 8 and 2 olock positions for the left-side front suspension, as shown here. The right-side front suspension would use the holes at the 10 and 4 o lock positions.
For the reassembly I have placed the
shock/spring assembly in a bench vise. Note the four holes provided for the two
studs on the top of the spring assembly. Use the 8 and 2 olock positions for the left-side
front suspension, as shown here. The right-side front suspension would use the
holes at the 10 and 4 o lock positions.
Attach the upper mount to the top of the
assembly with two 13mm
nuts – you should use new hardware here. Tighten to 15 ft-lbs.
Attach each control arm in its appropriate
position with new hardware. Consult the earlier photos for the correct
configuration of the unique control arms. The longer arm is toward the front of
the vehicle. The nut and bolt are 16mm.
Tighten them just enough to hold the control arms in place in a horizontal
position.
The Bentley manual specifies that you
measure a drop of 47mm,
+/- 2mm, from the tip of the
upper mount down to the top surface of the control arms. This is where the arms
should be positioned as they are tightened into place. The torque spec is 37 ft-lbs, plus a 1/4 turn-a spec that
should be finalized after the car is back on the ground. You may find that it¯ impossible to get a torque wrench
onto these bolts at that stage, so get it close for now and then add that 1/4
turn on the ground using a conventional wrench. Alternatively, you could jack
up the suspension to where it would be with the car on the ground and then
tighten its his method would give you better access.
The assembly is ready to go back in the
car. Note the new shock absorber from the .
As you put the assembly in place, this
body-mounted stud threads through a hole in the upper mount to assist you in
aligning mount with the bolt holes in the body.
Replace the three upper mount bolts and
their washers.
Position the bottom of the shock so that
you can secure it to the lower control arm.
Use a new nut and bolt to secure the shock.
Note that Ill put the bolt to the front side of the arm rather than the rear
to make it easier to remove the bolt in the future. On this side its removal
wont be obstructed by the rear control arm.
Tighten the bolt to 74 ft-lbs
Remove the plastic protective caps from the
upper control arm ball joints.
Place some anti-seize lubricant on the ball
joints to assist in their installation and potential removal later. Note the
semi-circular groove around the post of each ball joint. The pinch bolt rests
in this groove when it is installed l need to get that groove deep enough into
the upright that the pinch bolt can pass through.
Align the ball joints with the holes in the
upright. You will need to manipulate the ball joints themselves to get the
metal posts of the joints to align perfectly with the holes. Once you get them
into position, use a rubber mallet to tap the joints down into the holes in the
uprights. Its a tight space to work in. Your goal is to get the end of the
metal post of the ball joint roughly flush with the underside of the hole in
the upright to allow the pinch bolt to line up with the semi-circular groove in
the ball joint.
Once the ball joints are pushed far enough
into the upright, you can pass the pinch bolt through the upright from the rear
and secure it with a 16mm
nut attached to the front of the upright. Use some anti-seize lubricant and new
hardware and torque the nut and bolt to 30 ft-lbs.
As mentioned earlier, it may be easier to
perform the final torque application for the upper control arm bolts without
the wheel and tire in the way. If you jack the front suspension up to an
approximation of the resting ride height
, you can access these bolts like so –
but you probably wont be able to get a torque wrench in there.
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